We spent five adventurous days on Sao Miguel Island in the Azores, an autonomous region of Portugal in the mid-Atlantic. We stayed in an Airbnb in São Vicente Ferreira, which we found to be fairly centrally located to what we wanted to see during our trip.
Day 1 – Sete Cidades, Moisteros, get stranded
Day 2 – Salto do Cabrito, Lagoa do Fogoa hike
Day 3 – Furnas, Nostra Terra Park, Cozido, Inverted House
Day 4 – Natural Pools, tea plantation, Lagoa
Day 5 – Caldeira Velha, Ponta Del Gado
How did we PLAN
We planned out days based on location ahead of time. Each morning we woke up, we checked the webcams, and headed wherever was clearest! Days “1” and “2” were the ones dependent on clear skies. As we weren’t traveling in summer (high season), our weather was more touch and go. The webcams were invaluable and it was fun to scope out the island!
What did we DO
On our first day, we went straight for the money shot, Sete Cidades. There is an abandoned hotel, Monte Palace, that makes for a unique lookout point. Be careful though – elevator shafts are completely open and some areas can be dark. We were entirely alone when we were there, and it was pretty creepy (but I’m also a scaredy-cat). The basement is especially spooky and dark, as that is where the bar and nightclub were. Bring a flashlight and don’t miss the roof. There are walking paths nearby and you can drive down to the lake and rent kayaks. We spent some time exploring the town and enjoyed the view from next to the lake, too. You could plan to spend an entire day here, and this is a great place to choose to stay for your trip as there are picturesque rentals.
Next, we drove west to the town Moisteros, home to just 1,000 residents. We settled in at Poca da Pedra, a tiny snack bar, to enjoy the sunset with a delicious glass of wine and a view at the edge of the world. Caught up in the magic of our first day, we forgot about dinner and phone batteries and almost became residents 1,001 and 1,002. Luckily, a couple of kind Azoreans helped us charge our phones and fed us microwave pizza while they played dominoes. Lesson learned!
The next morning, we woke bright and early to go…FOOD SHOPPING! 🙂 Then, with our Airbnb stocked, phones and back-up batteries charged, day two was underway. Our first stop was a waterfall, Salto do Cabrito. Halfway down our car began to have difficulty so we pulled over – if you have a little rental, park at the top and walk. The falls are pretty, no swimming, just viewing. If you are short on time, this stop can be skipped.
We then went to our favorite stop of the trip, Lagoa do Fogo. We chose to do the full hike, labeled “PRC2SMI“, which was not difficult and if you do it leisurely with a stop for lunch, can take about 3 hours. The trail brings you down and around the lake, and through a protected seagull breeding ground. The temperature changed as the hike progressed so bring layers – we began in coats and ended in tank tops. The whole hike was peaceful and magical, and once we got past the initial portion we only encountered one other couple. Upon our return to the starting point, the clouds had cleared and we had a fabulous view of the lake!
On day three, we went to the town of Furnas. When we arrived we said, “Ah! So this is where all of the tourists are!” There is a beautiful hotel if that is of interest to you. Furnas is known for the Caldieras, volcanic craters that emit hot steam. While we were walking around town we stumbled upon an inverted house. We loved it and could find no information on it! See if you’re able to find it, too. For lunch we ate at the popular Tony’s Restaurant, although many others also offer the famed cozido. Cozido is a stew cooked in the ground, heated by the steam of the caldeiras. It is a delicious, filling meal that definitely feels cooked with love.
Terra Nostra Park was an unexpected highlight in Furnas. If you like botanical gardens and parks, budget a solid portion of the afternoon. The plants have been imported from all over the world; you will forget you are on an island in the middle of the Atlantic. You can wander for a solid hour, and also relax in the thermal hot springs afterwards. Our last stop in Furnas was Lake Furnas. Here you can see where the cozido is cooked, pet some kitties and use a restroom before you get back on the road.
Day four kept us local in the morning. Our accommodation was in Sao Vincente, and our backyard was a seaside cliff. We walked along the cliffs local natural pools to enjoy watching the waves crash. Then we headed out to Gorreana Tea Factory. The grounds are really cool and you can take a hike that leads you through the fields. I highly recommend this, and you will get amazing photos. We also stopped at nearby Miradouro de Santa Iria for a great view after we left, don’t miss it. For dinner we headed to Lagoa, a fishing town. We ate at Boda D’Agua and I swear the fish had just been caught an hour prior. The town was quiet and had an impressive natural pool that was the largest we saw. This was our favorite dinner on Sao Miguel.
Our last day we went to Caldeira Velha, a natural park with thermal pools. Make sure you check the hours as it closes early certain times of the year. They have lockers for your belongings. It was very popular when we were there and crowded. While we enjoyed it, if we were visiting in hot weather or high season I’m not sure if we would have gone. However, it was a fun experience and worth a look. These baths are more picturesque than the Furnas ones, but the lack of showers was a bummer. Note: do not wear a light colored suit or expensive one, as the water can stain it.
In the evening, we finally headed to the city of Ponta Del Gado. As it was Sunday it was very quiet and many shops were closed. We visited a graveyard and ate an unmemorable meal. The city did not rank high on our list of places to visit on the island!
If we had MORE TIME
We would have refused to leave until the weather permitted us to go whale watching. Each morning we called a tour company, but the wind was too much. Humpbacks were migrating while we were there so it was a disappointment. It is a must-do if you are able!
We also would have visited Nordeste, a more wild and less inhabited area where the famous Priolo bird lives and the town also boasts the highest peak. This is also the best place for the sunrise…or you can cheat and watch it from the webcams.
Or, we would have done another hike. The trails are so well marked and take you through beautiful scenery.
Lastly, I would have eaten more cheese. Every night before we went to bed, Nat and I would eat an embarrassing amount of the fresh local cheese. We also ate it in the morning. And in the car. Yet I still wonder if I could have eaten more. Maybe I more so just want to eat some right now… Speaking of cheese, I truly regret never getting to pet a cow, although it was not for lack of trying. Let me know if you have better luck.
On that note, we hope this inspires you to get out, wherever you are!
-Nat and Riki
Nat + Riki 
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